1989 Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bottle (750ml)

VM96 The 1989 Le Tertre-R?teboeuf is a vintage that I have not encountered for many years. Provenance probably plays a part, and this magnum was stored on release by Fran?ois Mitjavile?s UK agent. It has a deep hue with little aging on the rim and thick tears in the glass. The bouquet is broody at first, then bursts open with dark cherry, raspberry, morels and crushed stone, offering more blue fruit as it gradually responds to aeration. The structured, concentrated palate conveys a sense of beguiling symmetry. It is beautifully balanced with layers of black fruit infused with black truffle and hints of white pepper, and its satin texture belies the backbone on the finish that will ensure that well-stored bottles like this will give another 20 years of drinking pleasure. Superb.

RP95 Deep ruby/purple with slightly more intensity to its hue than the 1990, this full-bodied wine still has a very roasted character intermixed with sweet chocolate Raisinet-like flavors. Sweet, overripe cherries also make an appearance in this thick, juicy, yet structured, rather powerful Tertre Roteboeuf that is aging more slowly than its more renowned sibling, the 1990. This is a classic wine that should continue to repay cellaring.