St-Emilion, considered among Bordeaux's top sub-regions, boasts a world-renowned terroir, especially suited for the cultivation of Merlot. What's often overlooked is that it holds the distinction of being Bordeaux's oldest active wine-producing region, with roots tracing back to the Roman era. Resting on a limestone-rich plateau, St-Emilion presents an ideal terroir for crafting exceptional Merlot wines. Over the centuries, these wines have captivated both collectors and connoisseurs, etching an enduring legacy on the global wine stage.
Limestone and a Tapestry of Terroirs
The foundation of St-Emilion's origin lies in its limestone plateau—home to a collection of prestigious chateaux on the Right Bank. This sponge-like plateau boasts unique properties that nurture deep-rooted vines while enabling them to thrive in diverse weather conditions. Known for its moisture retention ability, the limestone soaks up water during rainy seasons and releases it when needed during dry spells. This exceptional trait makes limestone invaluable for the region.
St-Emilion's limestone plateau is the abode of some of its finest producers, including Chateau Angelus, Chateau Ausone, Chateau Pavie, Chateau Troplong Mondot, Chateau Canon, and Clos Fourtet. While not every iconic producer resides here, the majority of St-Emilion's top wineries call this plateau home. The region further divides into two other distinct terroirs—the slopes and the flats. The slopes near Pomerol feature gravel terraces and house two renowned producers—Chateau Figeac and Chateau Cheval Blanc. The flats, located along the Dordogne southeast of Libourne, exhibit soils characterized by a sandy-gravel plain.
The Footsteps of History
Diverse soils in St-Emilion create a mosaic of unique terroirs, defining not only the wines but the entire town. Steeped in history, the roots of St-Emilion stretch back to the Roman era, evident through scattered ruins throughout the appellation. The city derives its name from the Benedictine monk, Emilian, who facilitated the construction of the central limestone church. Today, St-Emilion proudly holds the title of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, beckoning visitors with its picturesque allure.
A dive into St-Emilion's history reveals the oldest wine society in France, established as early as 1199, and continues to thrive since its revival in 1948. The region's historic significance extends to being the first Bordeaux area to export wines—taking place during the 14th century. Thanks to its favorable proximity to the port city of Libourne, the Dordogne river, and the Atlantic Ocean, St-Emilion's wines found their way into glasses across Europe, putting the region's winemaking prowess on the global map.
Beyond Merlot
Home to arguably the planet's finest Merlot grapes, St-Emilion also cultivates a plethora of varieties within its limestone terroir, including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. The region's top wines predominantly feature Merlot, blended with other varieties to craft wines with extraordinary complexity and structure. Influenced by its diverse terroirs, St-Emilion wines encompass an array of styles, from opulent and bold to fresh and medium-bodied.
Controversy & Progression
To identify producers with a history of crafting high-quality wines, St-Emilion instituted its own classification system in 1955, after being excluded from the renowned 1855 classification. Differing from the rigid 1855 approach, St-Emilion's system updates itself every 10 years, taking a more dynamic stance. The system evaluates chateaux based on factors such as tasting their previous 10 vintages, national and international reputation, terroir, winemaking, viticulture, traceability, and age-ability. The results yield three categories—Premier Grand Cru Classe A, Premier Grand Cru Classe B, and Grand Cru Classe—each denoting various levels of excellence. Additionally, St-Emilion allows Chateaux to carry a "Grand Cru" designation, indicating adherence to appellation rules rather than vineyard-specific quality.
The classification system hasn't been without its share of controversies. In 2006, the Syndicat Viticole, responsible for overseeing the ranking, faced a legal challenge, resulting in the annulment of the entire 2006 classification. Consequently, the ranking was restructured in 2012. Since then, several esteemed Chateaux, including Cheval Blanc, Ausone, and Angelus, voluntarily withdrew from the system, raising questions about the criteria for renewal. Despite its flaws, the classification represents a step forward in reassessing Chateaux based on their improvements, a feature the 1855 classification lacks.
Commitment to Sustainability
St-Emilion's history of innovation continues to this day. In 2019, the region mandated 100% sustainable viticulture, making it the first Bordeaux appellation to do so. All estates bearing "St-Emilion" on their label must adhere to sustainable practices, showcasing the region's commitment to responsible winemaking.
A Tale of Progress
A region with a riveting history and exceptional significance, St. Emilion stands as one of France's most vital wine destinations. Its commitment to sustainable practices, dynamic classification system, expertly cultivated varieties, and diverse terroirs have earned it a well-deserved reputation in the wine world. Whether you're an experienced wine aficionado or embarking on your vinous journey, St. Emilion invites you to explore its rich heritage and savor the timeless allure of its extraordinary wines. Cheers to St. Emilion—a historical gem deeply rooted in the heart of Bordeaux's wine country.
Written by: Craig Headding