Keeping some of Côte de Nuits’ top domaines and vineyard sites, the tiny village of Chambolle-Musigny exemplifies the elegant, more charming side of Red Burgundy. These attributes may be the result of the shallow limestone-rich soils or its somewhat higher elevation, but a producer’s sway can be just as potent, even when the application is seemingly minimal. The celebrated wines of Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier (J-F Mugnier) embody the ethereal, pure fruit style of Chambolle, the result of prime vineyard selection overlaid with distinct winemaker influence.
A man of many talents, 5th generation Frédéric (Frédy) Mugnier transitioned into winemaking after leaving his career as an oil engineer, instead choosing to split time between his duties at the estate and piloting for a French airline. Upon rejoining the family estate in 1985, Frédy brought a more hands-off approach to winemaking, choosing to embrace a terroir-driven path. In the vineyards, Frédy ceased the use of fertilizers, causing a decline in yields but drawing out long-term health in the vineyards. He also shifted towards a later harvest, a risky maneuver that can result in fuller aromatic expression, and his reduced oak usage helped protect more delicate aromatics from being overpowered. This meticulous attention to detail is reflected in the final wines with Pinot Noir flaunting Chambolle-Musigny’s powerful elegance, capable of decades of age.
While Chambolle’s two Grand Cru vineyards, Musigny and Bonnes Mares, represent some of J-F Mugnier’s finest bottlings, the Premier Cru tier is where consumers can experience parallel styles without the splurge in price. Some of these sites inspire direct comparison to the Grand Cru level as Les Fuées sits directly adjacent to Bonnes-Mares and Les Amoureuses abuts Musigny downslope. In turn, these two vineyards share similar qualities with their illustrious neighbors, giving consumers a window to the Grand Cru experience.
Often reserved and more taut in youth, these wines show their best with time spent in bottle. Our collection of back-vintage Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier 1er Cru Les Fuées showcases these styles with the added complexity that comes with age. The 2006 wines are finessed with red fruit vibrancy, even after almost 20 years of development. 2008 brings an intriguing backbone of mineral tension, while 2011 is a lighter style with fresh florals, a reflection of the year.