2017 Massetino, Toscana IGT, Case of 3 btls, [First Vintage]

JS96 This new second wine from Masseto is extremely exciting with black-olive, rust, brown-sugar and dark-berry aromas. Full-bodied, chunky and structured with blackberry and salty undertones. Chewy yet polished tannins. It’s a substantial wine with lots of fruit and alcohol, due to the very dry and hot growing season, but it’s still fresh and vivid.

RP95+ Now that Masseto has a new home, a dedicated winery slash temple, it makes perfect sense that the brand would introduce a sibling wine. We had been hearing stirrings regarding the possible release of a second Masseto wine, and indeed the Masseto 2017 Massetino was born at about the same time the stunning new winery was unveiled. All these exciting changes lined up perfectly, making 2019 an important milestone year for the brand. I know that some critics have commented that Masseto didn't need a Massetino, the implication being that a second wine could distract from the main attraction and give the entire operation a more commercial air. I would disagree. Not only does this addition make a perfect companion, Massetino holds its own. Masseto is famously 100% Merlot, and Massetino is 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, a grape that has been showing spectacular results on this stretch of the Tuscan Coast. The addition of the Cabernet Franc gives this wine a very different personality, and it beautifully draws out the wine's high tones or the more lifted aromas of black olive spice and crushed aspirin or mineral that immediately catch your attention at the back of the usual black cherry, spice and tobacco. This wine is more playful and ultimately more fruit-driven, with less fruit weight. The Merlot comes from the same blue clay soils that distinguish Masseto, and the wine sees a less intensive oak regimen. You sense this in the freshness of the aromas, the elegant weightless quality of the mouthfeel and the softer tannins. Both steel and oak fermenters are used for brief skin maceration before going into barrique for 15 months, followed by an additional nine months in bottle. In all honesty, I would gladly go with Massetino over Masseto if I devilishly intended to drink the whole bottle. While Masseto can sometimes be too much, Massetino is just right. Welcome to a beautiful new world, young Mr. Massetino.