2005 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac, Bottle (750ml)

JA97 Depth and power from the first nose, stil young and a little austere, showing that 2005 is still taking its time to fully come around. But it just starting to really live up to expectations, packed with truffles, tar, and cigar box spices, gives a wonderful preview of what will happen to the 2010 and 2016 over time. There is a delicacy in this also, with soy, black tea, campfire smoke, smoked earth. A classic Grand Puy Lacoste, from an effortlessly balanced vintage, at the point of its ageing where Pauillac almost becomes St Julien in its finesse and balance. Zero rush to open, and it will easily stay in this delightful holding pattern for the next few decades. Harvest September 22 to October 5, 70% new oak.

JS97 A fabulous GPL. Perhaps better than the legendary 1982? It shows laser-guide precision on the palate with aromas of currants, cedar, mint, flowers and chocolate. Full-bodied and extremely finely textured on the palate, lasting for minutes. A joy to drink now. Get some.

RP96 This estate's finest wine of the decade is the 2005 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, a fleshy, sumptuous wine evocative of cassis, sweet red berries and cigar box, framed by a touch of creamy new oak that integrates with opening. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with an enveloping core of fruit, rich tannins and a seamless but authoritative profile, it concludes with a long, resonant finish. Just entering early maturity, it will continue to develop for several decades.