2009 Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot, Saint-Emilion, Bottle (750ml)

RP94+ My favorite Beau-Sejour-Becot to date, this sumptuous, dense blue/purple-hued 2009 reveals a blockbuster nose of blueberry pie, black fruits, licorice, forest floor, spring flowers and a hint of mocha. A blend of 70% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon made from tiny yields of 27 hectoliters per hectare, this big, inky, powerful, tannic wine is sensationally concentrated. With an unctuous texture, full-bodied power and tremendous levels of tannin (largely concealed behind a cascade of rich fruit), this is a fabulous effort from a beautifully situated St.-Emilion premier grand cru classe. It will need 5-8 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades.

VM94 The 2009 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 2 and 14 October. Like many 2009s it has an extravagant bouquet with red berry fruit, damson jam, hints of wild honey and crème de cassis. The oak is nicely integrated but it is the growing season that is doing the talking. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. Perhaps somewhat predictably it feels quite plush in the mouth but it retains admirable freshness and there is great backbone towards the ambitious finish. It pulls everything back from the brink when anything more might have tipped this 2009 into being "ostentatious" or "flash". Superb. Tasted at the château.