Masseto, undisputedly acclaimed as "Italy's greatest Merlot" by prominent critics from Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate, has earned its place among the elite. It's often referred to as "the Petrus of Italy" by seasoned collectors and connoisseurs, a title not bestowed lightly, even endorsed by renowned critic James Suckling. When juxtaposed with the venerable Bordeaux estate, Chateau Petrus, Masseto is significantly youthful in comparison. The estate has rapidly ascended the ranks, thanks to the brilliance of wine luminaries such as Andre Tchelistcheff, Michel Rolland, and Thomas Duroux. This single-vineyard Merlot ranks among the world's most coveted wines, boasting an impressive twelve perfect 100-point scores since its debut. Antonio Galloni eloquently captures the essence of Masseto, describing it as a wine that "never failed to literally send shivers down my spine on the multiple occasions I have tasted them."

The Birth of Masseto

The Masseto journey began in 1984 when Lodovico Antinori planted the first vines in the Masseto vineyard. Inspired by his cousin and the renowned work at Sassicaia, Antinori founded Tenuta dell'Ornellaia with a singular goal: to produce world-class Bordeaux-style blends nurtured by Tuscany's renowned terroir. Over time, Masseto evolved and gained independence from the Ornellaia estate, though it is still crafted by the same winemaker and was originally conceived as the estate's "second wine." But it didn't take long for Masseto to outshine Ornellaia's namesake wine, ascending to the pinnacle of the estate's offerings.

The vineyard's true potential was first recognized by the world-renowned wine consultant Andre Tchelistcheff. He recognized that the blue-clay soils were perfect for Merlot production, akin to the revered vineyards of Petrus. Although Merlot was a rarity in Tuscan vineyards at the time, Tchelistcheff's guidance prompted Antinori to plant the vines that would eventually yield one of the world's most sought-after wines.

A Triumph of Terroir

Initially planted in 1984, the Masseto hillside vineyard now blankets 17 acres, ascending to a newly constructed winery atop the hill. The vineyard comprises three distinct sections: Masseto Alto, Masseto Centrale, and Masseto Junior. Masseto Alto, situated at approximately 360 feet above sea level, is the highest parcel and the first to be harvested, lending Masseto its structural integrity and ripe fruit character. Masseto Centrale boasts the highest concentration of blue clay and is considered the "grand cru" of the vineyard, contributing opulence, intensity, and a robust tannin structure to the wine. Meanwhile, Masseto Junior, located around 230 feet above sea level, comprises the youngest vines, playing a pivotal role in harmonizing the final blend.

Leadership and Legacy

Although the vineyard was planted in 1984, Masseto didn't make its debut until 1991. While Andre Tchelistcheff played a pivotal role in its inception, it was the renowned consultant Michel Rolland who propelled Masseto onto the global stage. A decade after its introduction, the 2001 Masseto made waves across the wine world, securing a perfect 100-point score from Wine Spectator, hailed as the "greatest Tuscan red ever" and a "monument to Tuscany."

The vintages of 2001, 2002, and 2003 were steered by Thomas Duroux, who later departed the estate to lead a renaissance at Chateau Palmer. In 2005, Axel Heinz took the reins as the lead winemaker. Under Heinz's guidance, Masseto produced a range of wines rated at 97 points or higher along with multiple perfect 100-point wines. However, on March 24th 2023, it was announced that Axel Heinz would be leaving his position at Masseto to become the CEO of Chateau Lascombes in Bordeaux.

Innovation and Evolution

For the majority of its existence, Masseto's vintages have traditionally centered on 100% single-vineyard Merlot. However, as recently as 2019 and 2020, a small percentage of Cabernet Franc has been incorporated into the final blend. This decision, guided by Axel Heinz, drew inspiration from the renowned wines of Pomerol and St-Emilion. Previously aged for approximately 18 months in 50% new oak, Masseto now matures for roughly 24 months. Annual production yields between 30,000 to 35,000 bottles. Starting in 2017, Masseto introduced a second wine known as Massetino.

A Treasure for All

Masseto stands as an indisputable titan, perhaps the greatest "Super Tuscan" ever produced. While it has attracted some of the world's finest winemaking talent, Masseto consistently delivers a profound and singular expression of Merlot. You don't need to be an Italian wine connoisseur to savor the magnificence of the "Petrus of Italy." This exceptional wine should grace the cellars of veteran collectors and connoisseurs worldwide. When one considers its price in relation to wines like Petrus, Domaine de la Romanee Conti, or Screaming Eagle – the apex of their respective nations – Masseto emerges as a modestly attainable treasure. If your wine cellar is devoid of a bottle of Masseto, it may be time to rectify that omission and experience the allure of this extraordinary creation.

Written by: Craig Headding