2004 Sine Qua Non, SQN, Covert Fingers, California, Bottle (750ml) [Nicked Label]

The 462-case 2004 Pinot Noir Covert Fingers is seamless and elegant, with a ripe, layered profile of sweet cassis, forest floor, licorice and ground herbs. Coming all from the cooler climate Arita Hills Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills and completely destemmed, aged in 70% new French oak (the rest in 1-3-year-old barrels), never racked, and bottled unfined and unfiltered, it’s a full-bodied, beautiful effort that’s drinking at point. It’s in no danger of falling off a cliff and should continue to shine through 2024, although I see no reason to hold off.