Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Old Vines 2008 750mL

Medium red. Red fruits, licorice and spicy oak lifted by orange zest, minerals, mint and a whiff of rhubarb. Densely packed and plump, with a breadth of texture that belies its modest alcohol level. Boasts excellent red berry energy and sap; there's a crushed fruit quality here that reminded me of Chambolle. The long, rising finish is sweet but quite firm, with plenty of fruit tannins to support the 100% new oak treatment. This fascinating and satisfying wine made the Occidental Vineyard wine seem soft by comparison. The vines are planted at 8 by 12 feet, with a huge canopy providing shade and preserving the natural acidity of the fruit. (from a 1977 planting; picked last, at the end of September; just 12.9% alcohol)

- Stephen Tanzer