2005 Masseto Toscana, Tuscany, Bottle (750ml)

$975
Rating:JD96/AG95 i Wine Critics: RP = Robert Parker
AG = Antonio Galloni
BH = BurgHound
JD = Jeb Dunnuck
LP = Lisa Perrotti-Brown
VM = Vinous Media
WS = Wine Spectator
JS = James Suckling
DR = Decanter
NYR = Not Yet Rated

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Product Description

JD96 (Masseto) It is always special to taste a winemaker’s first wines, and tasting the 2005 Masseto alongside Axel Heinz captures perfectly the emotion and purpose of what wine is all about, a living art form to be shared and bring people together. The 2005 Masseto is rich with herbaceous layers of kirsch, thyme, worn leather, and menthol. It is fleshy and full, with mocha and black truffle, and is still flush with ripe fruit that coaxes through the mid-palate, with present and firm structure. There is still enough life left in it to go at least another decade. Drink 2022-2032.The adjacent sister property to Ornellaia, the Masseto estate in Bolgheri produces benchmark wines based on Merlot, with its first vintage in 1987. Their new winery, which debuted in 2018, was designed by architects Hikaru Mori and Maurizio Zito of the ZitoMori Studio, who named it “The Quarry.” It is an impressive design, with the exterior blending into the landscape, only to reveal its true grandeur upon entering the winery beneath. One feature of the new winery has been to move away from the use of stainless steel, which they found could contribute to reductive qualities. Instead, 20 to 25% of the wine is now fermented in concrete tanks, with the remainder in oak barrels. The concrete also takes on some of the qualities of barrel fermentation, without adding the additional flavors that barrels would contribute. The oldest vines are currently approaching 40 years old, and in newer vintages, Cabernet Franc they planted more recently has been making its way into the wines. My tasting took place at the winery with the estate’s new winemaker, Gaia Cinnirella, and Axel Heinz, who has moved into an overseer role as the estate director.

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