2008 Domaine Leroy, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Bottle (750ml)

RP 96 "If I was expecting density and formidable tanninity from Bize-Leroy?s 2008 Clos Vougeot ? and I guess that, relatively speaking, I was ? it surprised me with its remarkable sense of buoyancy and transparency. The extract and the tannic underpinnings are there, but felt in the background ? or like the ground you walk on and whose support you don?t think about. Through a deep pool of grenadine, cherry and red meat juices are glimpsed heliotrope and narcissus perfume; rose hip, black tea and licorice; salt and crushed stone. An invigoratingly tart kick of berry skin and rhubarb adds to the kinetic intensity of an exhilarating finish. In 25 years I suspect this will still have sap and energy in reserve. It is a Clos Vougeot like no other I can recall. Lalou Bize-Leroy reports average 2008 Pinot Noir yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare, almost absurdly tiny even by her singular standards. Malos were a bit later than usual but were finished by summer, and the wines bottled ? as usual ? in December. Yet ? also as usual ? if their development was thereby in any way stunted, you certainly won?t detect it in the bottle today! The best of these display a sense of transparency; levity; and ? even when rich and head-spinningly complex ? a sheer sense of refreshment and invigoration that I have seldom encountered in other great wines from these sister estates." (June 2010)
Domaine Leroy, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru