2004 Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol, Bottle (750ml)

DR94 This is definitely still in the younger phase, with plenty of primary fruit notes that are just starting to budge from tight cassis and black pepper spice to gentler blackberry and black truffle. It has lovely precise black fruits, showcasing the excellence of La Conseillante's winemaking and terroir. There's good persistency and reassuring grip too, finishing with a lovely black truffle note. It has a good 10-15 years ahead of it.

NM93 Tasted at the La Conseillante vertical at Chez Bruce. A stupendous performance by the '04 and one of the overlooked gems under Jean-Michel Laporte's tenure, this representing his debut. It has a soft, slightly muffled bouquet with macerated black cherries, soy, raspberry coulis and a touch of bell pepper, improving all the time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight bitter edge on the entry, fine acidity but it is not quite in synch with the rest of the wine. Obdurate tannins (mirroring my sentiments from last years), rendering this a rather sultry La Conseillante but with a lascivious bittersweet finish and razor-like precision. Lovely. Tasted December 2010.