2007 Conterno Fantino, Sori Ginestra, Barolo, Bottle (750ml)

VM96 Bright, saturated ruby-red. Knockout nose reminded me of grand cru Burgundy, showing scents of black cherry, cassis, violet, licorice, minerals, tobacco and mocha. Like a liquid confection in the mouth, with a silky, creamy middle that hints at the wine's alcoholic richness without coming across as overripe or heavy. The 2008 version is more tightly wound and high-pitched; this is powerful but freakishly smooth: pure pleasure in a bottle. Its substantial sweet tannins and great palate-staining length suggest that it will be long-lived.