1986 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Bottle (750ml)

"Having closely followed Dunn's Cabernet Sauvignons since the debut 1979 vintage, it is remarkable how consistent these wines have been. Dunn's great early successes, especially the 1982s, were followed by a succession of rich, tannic wines in 1984, 1985, 1986, and 1987, two tough years in 1988 and 1989, and, as with most northern California wineries, an unprecedented run of great years starting in 1990. The wines are always impressive for their strength, massive body, and highly extracted blackcurrant fruit. Dunn, who believes in filtering but not fining, tends to use the former technique as a way of bringing a measure of refinement to the brute strength and power his wines possess. It is too early to say, but if there is any weakness to Dunn's Cabernets it would be the surprising lack of bottle bouquet. Dunn vehemently believes that filtration has nothing to do with this, and that it is only a matter of time before his Cabernets exhibit more aromatic evolution.
Dunn remains one of California's superstar Cabernet Sauvignon producers, yet it is interesting to note that many other top producers appear to be getting more integrated tannin and bottle bouquet at an earlier age. With Dunn's wines, it is just a question of waiting 15 or more years for the bottle bouquet to develop." Published: Dec 22, 1994