1985 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Bottle (750ml)

AG97 "I went through my Dunn phase 6-7 years ago, just when we were getting Vinous started. I tasted the wines often, bought maybe more than I should have for my own cellar, and really tried to get inside these powerful mountain Cabernets. A recent bottle of the 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain took me back to those days. I don’t know why – I have had the 1985 a number of times – and yet I was shocked by its concentration, its aromatic intensity, and its sheer youthfulness. Dark, deep and beautifully resonant, but not at all heavy, the 1985 still possesses extraordinary richness while remaining very much classic in feel. Graphite, cured meats, smoke, licorice, incense and grilled herbs add tons of Howell Mountain savoriness. Dunn sourced fruit from four vineyards for the 1985: Trailer, Harry Frank, Beatty Ranch and La Jota. The 1985 spent 30 months in French oak. Production was 3,000 cases. Readers lucky enough to own it can look forward to another 15-20 years of glorious drinking. What a wine!" AG for VM Sep 2019