2017 Domaine Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Bottle (750ml)

JS97 "The very complex nose of flint, dried pear, Amalfi lemon and fresh ginger pulls you inexorably into this super focused and racy Corton-Charlemagne that is still tightly wound. Wonderful silky texture at the very long crushed stone finish. So much energy and vitality it should age very well. From organically grown grapes." JS Aug 2022

RP96 "The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is aging with real grace, unwinding in the glass with notes of sweet citrus oil, crisp green apple, white flowers, pastry cream and vanilla, framed by a deft touch of reduction. It is medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive, with a satiny attack that segues into a pure, layered mid-palate animated by racy acids, concluding with a precise, saline finish." WK for WA Jun 2023
"My visit with cellar master Emmanuel Hautus and estate director Armand de Maigret went very well, and I continue to be impressed by the direction they are taking here. On the white side of the ledger, parcel-by-parcel vinification gives Hautus and his team a broad palette of blending components to choose between, which is a rare luxury in Burgundy and one that they appear to be exploiting to the fullest. At the press, Hautus told me that he tries to be more adaptive to the year, with foulage and press cycles tailored to each crop, rather than proceeding by default. On this visit, I tasted a "pre-assemblage" of the 2018 Corton-Charlemagne as well as several of its components, Hautus explaining how the domaine's large holdings mean he can draw on parcels from different altitudes and soil types to buffer the impact of a warm vintage. I also revisited the domaine's 2017s from bottle. When an estate takes a new direction, I'm loath to rush to judgment, but I have followed developments at Bonneau du Martray with interest. So the new team had everything to play for, and the results so far are decidedly impressive. There hasn't been any smoke or mirrors; indeed, the new management is decidedly discreet. But Hautus's attention to detail is evident; and the bottled 2017s, surpassing their performance twelve months ago, are showing superbly. In short, anyone who has drunk the great Bonneau du Martray wines from vintages such as 1973, 1979, 1982 and 1985 should be very excited indeed." WK for WA Jun 2023