2018 Domaine Leflaive, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Magnum (1.5L)

JS96 This teeters towards opulence, but the bright acidity, flinty reduction and very precise winemaking enable it to retain excellent balance. In spite of the ripeness and concentration, this remains graceful, the tannins and minerality building at the expressive finish, where everything fits beautifully. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

RP95 Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, the 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a textural, elegantly muscular wine evocative of pear, toasted almonds, white flowers, peach and vanilla pod. Layered and powerful, it concludes with a long, saline finish. It's more dramatic and broader-shouldered than the suave, seamless Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet this year.

DR95 We are making wines to age,' says Pierre Vincent, perhaps conscious of some of the issues with premature oxidation in the recent past at the domaine. This is right at the other end of the spectrum: a sculpted, chiselled, tightly wound Bâtard-Montrachet, with perfumed 25% new wood and a very racy, mouthwatering finish. Continues the stylistic shift of the last two vintages.