2007 Gaja Sperss Langhe, Barolo, Piedmont, Bottle (750ml)

AG97 The 2007 Langhe Sperss is beyond impeccable in the way it combines a powerful expression of Serralunga fruit in a round, enveloping style. Make no mistake about it, there is plenty of intensity and muscle here, but in 2007 Sperss is exceptionally harmonious from the start. The fruit is decidedly darker than the red-toned Conteisa, while an array of licorice, smoke and iron – all typical of Serralunga – add further gravitas. Even as the tannins build on the close, here, too, the finish is utterly sublime. The 2007 Sperss will test readers' patience but it is simply magnificent even today. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with a breathtaking bottle of wine.