Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Vineyard 2006 750mL

Pungent aromas of wild berries, herbs, underbrush and smoke lifted by an enticing lavender perfume. Less fruity but more minerally and bright than the basic bottling, offering a rather silky texture and some attractive high-toned notes of perfumed red fruits. I like this pinot's restrained sweetness and its classically dry finish. Owner/winemaker Thomas Brown told me that the tiny quantities of fruit he had to work with in 2005 were difficult to manage, and that the 2006s were easier to make. Still, yields in the latter year were in the modest 1 to 2.5 tons-per-acre range. (75% new oak; just 13.7% alcohol)

- Stephen Tanzer